The Hemp Trading Company, aka THTC, has revolutionized eco-friendly fashion.
The London-based company brought hemp to the high street two decades ago with the launch of the brand’s sustainable clothing line comprised of garments made from hemp, organic cotton, and other sustainable materials.
THTC merges music, art, and activism. The clothing line features T-shirts designed by artists such as Mau Mau, whose urban artwork is known for its cultural commentary.
The company grew from a college-run business to the award-winning global brand it is today. Musicians and celebrities like Woody Harrelson, Redman, Method Man, members of UB40, Ed Sheeran and world Beatbox champion Alexinho are just a few of the personalities known to have supported THTC.
Not all designs are politically explicit; other prints showcase collaborations — like “King David” and “Born Free” — between THTC and organizations including the World Land Trust, Born Free Foundation, and The Refugee Community Kitchen.
THTC’s founder, Gav Lawson, talks exclusively to us about building the award-winning eco-fashion line, and the company’s newest collections.
The Beginnings of Something Sustainable
L-R: Woody Harreslon, THTC founders Gav and Drew Lawson.
Lawson founded the ethically driven streetwear brand alongside his brother, Drew, and friend Daniel Sodergren in 1999 while they attended universities in Hull and Bristol respectively. Together they formed the campus hemp awareness societies called Hempology, which became the basis for THTC.
“It took a few years for the brand to gain traction,” said Lawson, who is now the sole owner. “I didn’t know if the company would take off. We were so ahead of our time; ethical or organic clothing was not really a thing in the 90s.”
Almost four years ago, Lawson was joined by digital marketing expert Ashwin Bolar, who has vastly helped transform the company’s online strategy and boost their social media presence.
“Ashwin has been a great help to THTC,” said Lawson. “He is a very talented digital marketer and brings a lot to the table. Since he joined, our number of Facebook followers has more than doubled to almost 55,000. He also creates THTC’s graphics.”
THTC made its move into the mainstream when it became the first ethically minded clothing brand to be carried in Virgin Megastores.
“That was big for us,” Lawson said, “It had always been our aim to bring hemp to the high street and Richard Branson gave us that first opportunity.”
TK Maxx (the U.K. version of TJ Maxx) also started to carry THTC garments in more than 80 of its retail shops.
“THTC became one of their most popular t-shirt brands and we were the first hemp product to be stocked in their stores,” Lawson said.
“Ethical Consumer Magazine” ranks THTC as the U.K.’s most ethical independent menswear brand. British newspaper the Observer’s annual Ethical Awards also recognized the company as runner up for “Best Fashion Product” in 2004. In addition to its many accolades, Lawson earned a PEA award – the UK’s “biggest green awards” – for his achievements.
THTC recently paired up with Colorado-based Hoodlab Store, who is now the brand’s official U.S. distributor.
Finding THTC Brand Champions
Method Man and Redman wearing THTC tees.
When asked why THTC found success as an eco-fashion brand when others did not, Lawson credited it to years of networking, brand champions, and his small staff.
He spent more than a decade promoting his brand on the club scene, giving away T-shirts, and sharing his passion and vision for THTC. Through this experience, he said, he found champions of the brand, or people who wear THTC products “[…] because they are proud to.”
“People are often too busy in their own lives to worry about trying to save the world,” Lawson said. “They don’t know where to start, or that wearing one t-shirt made from organic hemp compared to conventionally grown cotton can save up to 2,500 liters of fresh water.”
THTC customers feel empowered just by wearing a T-shirt, a term he described as “armchair activism.”
“It becomes infectious,” Lawson said.
Making Sustainability Stylish
Josh Whitehouse (musician from ‘More Like Trees’ and actor from ‘Poldark’) in “Evil Mac” tee.
THTC revolutionized sustainable fashion by taking it from boring to trendy.
“Most environmentally friendly brands lead with their environmental credentials,” Lawson said. “We wanted THTC to be design-led, so we focused on creating strong designs and a cool brand that people would be proud to wear, whether they are environmentally minded or not.
Men in the U.K. are one of the hardest demographics to sell ethical fashion to, said Lawson; “generally speaking, they couldn’t give a damn about saving the planet.”
That’s why the company focuses on marketing itself as a fashion label before being a political one, Lawson explained. “We try to be the first ethical purchase for people who otherwise wouldn’t necessarily think about sustainability.”
Rising From the Ashes
MC GQ.
One of the biggest struggles in the company’s history came shortly after the economic crisis in 2008. A few years later, in 2013, a fire occurred at THTC’s screen-printing facility that destroyed their screen-printing machine and 12 years worth of screens, costing them thousands. As a result, Lawson put on an event at South London-based venue, Electric Brixton called “Re-Grow.”
The event featured a very impressive line-up comprising of many of THTC’s supporting musicians who came along and performed for free, said Lawson.
“I was overwhelmed by the goodwill from the people,” he said.
Another challenge, and a point of pride for Lawson, is keeping THTC products affordable.
“I’ve always kept prices as low as I can — the cost of producing sustainable, truly ethical fashion is astronomical compared to cheap, throwaway cotton,” he said. While shops like Primark (equivalent to a Forever 21 in the U.S.) “pay peanuts for a t-shirt, we’re paying around £8 [more than $10],” Lawson explained. “We screen print all of our designs in London, usually with water-based and discharge printing processes.
The price of hemp, and other eco-friendly fabrics are already expensive enough, he said, “We try to make our products as affordable as possible.”
Transparency Through the Production Line
Lawson and the THTC factory workers.
Lawson recently visited China, documenting his visit to the two facilities that produce their hemp clothing. THTC is currently editing a mini-documentary about the experience which is being produced by THTC’s video creator Spelt Productions.
The moment people hear about production in China, “They assume you’re working with sweatshops,” said Lawson. But that couldn’t be further from the truth.
The factories producing THTC garments are small, with between 12-20 staff. They are not exposed to harsh chemicals due to the nature of the products made, and a shared commitment to sustainability. They work from 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. and take regular holidays.
Lawson is quick to remind others that poor working environments occur everywhere. It is countries like China, he asserted, that need ethical production facilities more than anywhere.
“Plus,” he said, “hemp has been in Chinese culture for thousands of years. They’re way ahead of the game in terms of how the fabric is manufactured.”
For those reasons, he is proud of how and where THTC clothes are made.
Lawson is focused on transparency and sustainability throughout the entire production line. The company has produced ranges with upcycling businesses such as My Only One, and Good One, turning old garments into new styles.
THTC is preparing to launch a line of THTC accessories that includes socks, underwear, wallets, belts, flexible ball caps, and more.
In the near future, Lawson also hopes to expand into the white label market, and create prints for dispensaries or other companies who are seeking sustainable merchandise.
To keep up to date with THTC’s new drops and news, give them a follow on Facebook and Instagram.
Visit their website and enter CANNABIS-AFICIONADO-15 for a 15 percent discount on everything in the THTC range excluding charitable collaboration designs.
Israel’s Cannabis Trade Probe Moves Toward a Four-Producer Review
Israel’s latest procedural step puts four Canadian producers in focus, while the distinction between an investigation and an imposed trade duty remains essential.
Israel’s investigation of Canadian medical cannabis imports has reached another procedural stage, with four producers identified for closer examination, according to reporting on an October 22 notice. The development concerns how investigators will assess exporters. It does not, by itself, establish that dumping occurred or impose a new import duty.
Israel’s Cannabis Magazine reported that the trade-levies commissioner selected Koots Canna, 2323414 Alberta and Cielo Verde Quebec as a sample, with GrowCo to be examined separately. The outlet said it obtained the commissioner’s document. Cannabis Aficionado has reviewed the published reporting, rather than independently obtained that notice.
Why four producers are in focus
According to Cannabis Magazine, the three sampled growers represent about 22 percent of exports among the 16 indoor and hybrid growers that supplied data. GrowCo was singled out because of its greenhouse production and export volume. The report says the four together cover approximately 70 percent of Canadian cannabis imports into Israel during the relevant investigation period.
Those are descriptions of the proposed examination, not market-share figures that should automatically be applied to current retail sales. The reporting also describes a five-business-day response period for parties to comment. A reader should not mistake that opportunity to respond for a final ruling.
StratCann’s October 23 report adds that 22 Canadian companies supplied initial responses and 17 had exported during the investigation period. Its account says the commissioner considered individual calculations for every cooperating exporter impractical within the available time. Sampling is therefore central to this stage of the dispute.
What “dumping” means in this context
The World Trade Organization’s explanation of anti-dumping rules describes dumping as exports sold below their normal value, generally assessed against the exporting market. It is a trade-law pricing question. It is not an allegation that cannabis was contaminated, illegally cultivated or unsuitable for patients.
The comparison is more involved than placing two advertised prices side by side. The WTO describes adjustments that can be needed for differences in sale conditions, quantities, taxation and product characteristics. Its framework also requires consideration of material injury to a domestic industry and a causal link between that injury and dumped imports.
That makes production methods and comparable pricing relevant without making either conclusive. A greenhouse producer can have different costs from an indoor grower, but a cost difference alone does not settle all the questions required for an anti-dumping measure. The investigation has to establish the relevant facts through its process.
A dispute with several procedural turns
The latest review follows an earlier investigation that was closed in July. In a July 28 notice, Israel’s Ministry of Economy and Industry said the closure was for procedural reasons: advance notification had not been provided to the exporting country’s competent authority because of human error.
The ministry explicitly said that closure was not a substantive determination on the complaint. It also preserved the possibility of a further complaint or a new investigation. The distinction matters in both directions: closure did not establish that the allegations were correct, and it did not establish that they were disproven.
Cronos Group’s securities filing records a new complaint dated July 30, notification to Canada on August 2 and notice to the company on August 5 that a new investigation had begun. The company says it cannot predict the outcome or whether provisional or final duties will ultimately be imposed.
The filing also traces the earlier case to January 2024 and describes the finance minister’s opposition to the proposed duty in April 2025. It records subsequent court challenges as well. That history helps explain why earlier proposed tariff percentages should not be presented as the rate established by the October 2026 sample-selection step.
What changes for readers and businesses now
For businesses, the immediate development is a more specific picture of which exporters may receive detailed scrutiny. It is not enough information to calculate a new landed cost, predict a supplier’s future prices or announce an interruption to patient supply. Those claims would require additional evidence.
For patients and other readers, an investigation headline should remain separate from a product-safety headline. Nothing in this procedural selection establishes a health finding about a named producer’s cannabis. Nor does it establish a new prescription rule.
The next substantive items to watch are the commissioner’s treatment of responses to the sample, any published preliminary determination and any resulting measure. Reports available for this article describe sample selection, with no preliminary duty decision reported at that stage. Until a later document changes that position, the appropriate description is an unresolved trade investigation.
Illustrative stock trade photograph; not a documented cannabis shipment or an Israeli port. Photo: Andrea Musto / Pexels.
Rubicon’s $3 Million Raise Puts Greenhouse Lighting at the Center of Expansion
The Canadian producer plans to expand output from existing facilities, with a lighting project bringing its combined capacity target forward to June 2027.
Rubicon Organics is putting new capital into the lights above an existing crop rather than announcing another cultivation site. The Canadian producer’s October 19 financing announcement outlines a roughly $3 million private placement intended to support lighting and related greenhouse infrastructure at its Pacifica facility in Delta, British Columbia.
The company expects the project to help bring combined annual capacity at Pacifica and its Cascadia facility to 20,000 kilograms by June 2027, about a year earlier than previously anticipated. That is a production target. Whether additional capacity becomes profitable, saleable flower will depend on execution, operating costs and demand.
What the financing is intended to fund
According to Rubicon’s announcement, Siwash Rock Investments subscribed for 6,666,667 common shares at $0.45 each. Proceeds are intended for the lighting project, with the balance going to working capital.
Rubicon says Pacifica’s annual capacity could reach 15,500 kilograms after the upgrade, a 40 percent increase at that facility. The 20,000-kilogram figure refers to both sites together. Those two numbers describe different scopes and should not be added together. Final TSX Venture Exchange acceptance remained outstanding in the announcement.
The operating background behind the project
Rubicon’s second-quarter results, released in August, provide context for the expansion. The company reported net revenue of C$18.5 million, up 23 percent year over year, while adjusted EBITDA fell 18 percent to C$1.1 million. Adjusted EBITDA is the company’s nonstandard earnings measure, not net profit.
Management attributed pressure on profitability to the ramp-up of Cascadia even as revenue grew. It also reported that Pacifica’s per-crop yield metrics had increased approximately 20 percent in the first half of 2026 compared with a year earlier.
Those disclosures show why output and earnings need to be examined separately. A business can sell more while still absorbing the expense of bringing a facility to its intended performance. The lighting investment adds another operational milestone to watch alongside the company’s reported financial results.
The August report put combined capacity at 15,500 kilograms before the planned lighting expansion. That earlier baseline helps clarify the October target: the same figure later describes Pacifica alone, while the combined target rises to 20,000 kilograms.
Why growers pay attention to lighting
There is a research basis for studying how additional light affects cannabis production. A 2022 study in Frontiers in Plant Science tested the THC-dominant cultivar Meridian under different light intensities in an indoor environment. Dry flower weight was higher under the strongest tested photosynthetically active light treatment than under the lowest.
However, the study found no corresponding effect of those intensity treatments on cannabinoid concentrations in the flower. Its ultraviolet treatments also provided no commercially relevant benefit under the tested conditions. More flower and stronger flower were separate questions.
The researchers cautioned that responses vary with genotype and production environment. Their findings explain why light is a serious cultivation variable; they do not independently verify Rubicon’s projected 40 percent increase. A controlled indoor experiment is not a performance test of Pacifica’s greenhouse or its proposed equipment.
The experiment also illustrates why a lighting announcement should identify what success means. In this case, increased dry flower weight did not demonstrate increased flower cannabinoid concentration, even though both measures could matter commercially.
The energy bill belongs in the calculation
A 2021 PLOS ONE study by Utah State University researchers makes another useful distinction. In experiments with medical hemp, the team compared lighting spectra and fixture efficiency. A tested white-and-red LED treatment produced slightly less flower per unit of growing area than a high-pressure sodium treatment, but more flower per dollar of electricity.
The authors concluded that fixture efficacy and upfront cost could matter more to investment returns than spectral distribution at high light levels. Their study also found no effect of spectral quality on CBD or THC concentration under its conditions.
For readers following a greenhouse upgrade, the practical implication is that kilograms alone cannot describe the result. Equipment cost, electricity use and the amount of usable production obtained from that energy all belong in the evaluation. Those research findings are background, not a specification for Rubicon’s project.
For broader demand context, our coverage of Canada’s August retail sales explains why national spending and an individual producer’s performance answer different questions. A market record does not validate a particular expansion forecast.
What will show whether the expansion works
The most useful follow-up will connect construction progress with actual operating results: whether the equipment is installed on time, whether yields improve consistently and whether the additional flower supports sales without eroding margins. Those are checkpoints, rather than outcomes established by the financing.
For cultivators, Rubicon’s plan offers a concrete example of pursuing more output within existing infrastructure. For consumers, the announcement does not guarantee a change in potency, availability or shelf price. The capital has been raised; the production and commercial results still have to follow.
Illustrative stock greenhouse photograph; not Rubicon’s Pacifica facility or a cannabis crop. Photo: Albina White / Pexels.
Calyx Launches packOS With Label Quotes First and More Tools to Follow
Calyx’s new packOS platform starts with label quoting. Its launch raises practical questions about artwork, production scope and the compliance work that remains with brands.
Calyx has introduced packOS, a packaging procurement platform that begins with a practical task: turning existing artwork into a quote. The October 20 launch brings the company’s cannabis packaging experience into software, with an initial Quick Quote offering and additional approval and order-management tools on its roadmap.
For cannabis brands, the useful question is what can be ordered now. The current product page identifies label quoting as live and flexible packaging as coming soon. That makes the first release more specific than the phrase “operating system” might suggest, particularly for buyers expecting a complete replacement for their existing packaging workflow.
What Calyx announced
In its company release distributed by Cannabis Business Times, Calyx describes a platform intended to move procurement beyond email chains, spreadsheets and manual quotes. It says buyers can upload packaging artwork and compare production options, prices and corresponding lead times.
The release presents Quick Quote as the first major component, with Artwork Approval and Order Management to follow. It also describes artificial intelligence and automation in estimating, artwork preparation and prepress. Those are Calyx’s descriptions of its technology, rather than results from independent testing by Cannabis Aficionado.
The distinction matters when comparing a launch announcement with a purchasing decision. A platform may describe an ambitious direction while delivering a narrower first service. Buyers need a clear understanding of which steps are available today, which require additional coordination and which remain future capabilities.
The current scope starts with labels
The product homepage says users can submit a PDF or Adobe Illustrator file. It describes extracting specifications from that artwork, producing a visual proof and pricing quantities. Labels are listed as available, while pouch quoting is marked as a future addition. Artwork Intelligence and Order Management appear in preview on the current roadmap.
For a buyer preparing a launch, those labels are more useful than assuming everything mentioned in an announcement is fully available. A proof, a quotation and an accepted production order are separate milestones. Establishing which one the platform has delivered helps prevent a team from treating preliminary information as a finished manufacturing commitment.
Printing does not replace compliance review
The cannabis-specific product page covers several label uses, including jars, lids, pre-rolls, boxes and batch information. It also answers an essential question directly: state compliance review stays with the customer’s team and counsel. The software is not presented there as a service that approves labels against state cannabis rules.
That boundary is significant for a brand operating across markets. An artwork file can be ready to print while still needing a jurisdiction-specific review. The company says customers provide approved versions for each state; it also says label orders do not require buying containers from Calyx.
Its described workflow separates preprinted brand and strain information from batch details added by customers using their own thermal printers. That is a production option, not proof that a particular finished label contains every required disclosure. The final artwork and data still need attention before a product reaches a shelf.
Questions to settle before uploading artwork
Packaging files may contain unreleased product names or designs, making information handling part of vendor selection. Calyx’s published security page says files travel over encrypted connections, are held in private storage and can be deleted on request. It describes using submitted files for quotes, proofs and production.
These are the provider’s stated practices, not an independent security assessment. A brand considering the service should compare those commitments with its own approval process and any obligations attached to an unreleased design. A convenient upload workflow does not itself decide who within a business is authorized to share artwork.
Similarly, any sourcing comparison should identify what is included in the quoted job. Quantity, material, finish, delivery expectations and the approved artwork version are practical points to settle before authorizing production. A lower displayed number is only meaningful when the underlying specification matches the buyer’s needs.
The security page also says access links expire and that an unverified internal access check is denied. Buyers can ask the provider how these stated controls apply to their particular project and who can request deletion.
A software launch with a manufacturing context
The consumer-facing side of packaging is visible in 710 Labs’ new Close Friends presentation. The packOS announcement addresses an earlier stage: how packaging teams organize artwork, evaluate options and move toward production.
For now, the clearest takeaway is a new quoting tool with a stated initial scope. Brands can assess the label service on that basis while tracking whether the planned approval and order-management features become available. Adoption, actual time savings and customer outcomes will require evidence beyond the launch announcement.
Illustrative stock printing equipment; not a Calyx facility or packOS demonstration. Photo: Criiv India / Pexels.